Cheap Eat$
Dreams can motivate, but they don't always pay off. Yet dreaming certainly seems to have proved profitable for Pelican State Restaurant owner Claude Allen.
Allen flipped his share of burgers and managed his share of fast-food outlets before venturing into the ownership arena.
Though he worked for such brand names as Jack in the Box, McDonald's and Checkers, he longed to captain his own cafe.
"We all do a little wishful thinking every now and then," he says.
As a young Louisianian living in Chicago 26 years ago, an idea for a restaurant name sprang into his mind. He thought the Louisiana state bird, the pelican, would fly as a mascot; hence the name "Pelican State."
He kept the idea stored away and retrieved it when he began developing the concept for the restaurant.
Located in a somewhat industrial area on Cullen just under I-45, the restaurant boasts a broad clientele.
"This is a mecca of an area, with small companies. People come in and out of this area from all over town," Allen said.
Yet students from UH and the nearby TSU are by and large unaware of the 12-table cafe.
Passing up Pelican State Restaurant might be easy, but surely not a wise choice for cash-strapped college folk.
The Pelican opens its doors at 7 a.m. Can anyone say pre-finals breakfast? Early morning offerings include a trio of pancakes ($2.45); several varieties of three-egg omelets (the priciest features go for $4.25), each served with hashbrowns or grits and toast; and an assortment of breakfast sandwiches and biscuits, most of which cost around $2.00.
Stop by at lunch or dinnertime for a variety of homecooked plate lunches, Cajun dishes and sandwiches.
The gumbo is the restaurant's signature dish, according to Allen. It features a dark Louisiana roux, two kinds of shrimp, crab and sausage. A cup costs $3.69 and a bowl costs $4.89.
For variety, try the substantial daily specials, which cost around $5.00. Entrees include smothered round steak, baked fish, ox tails, stuffed pork chops and baked chicken with dressing. Each plate includes white rice and gravy and two vegetables. The baked chicken was juicy and smartly spiced with oregano. The rice was properly moist and adorned with a just-heavy enough brown gravy.
The hamburger combo costs $2.99 and includes half a plate full of thickly cut, fresh French fries. The hamburger itself was hefty - it featured a thick patty and all the trimmings.
On the lighter side, check out the $3.99 chicken salad. While it suffered from too much egg and too little chicken, the chicken breast tasted well-spiced and not-too-dry.
A recent visit found the restaurant in cheery, clean form. Allen pays homage to his home state with T-shirts from Louisiana universities and various other artifacts. Now he wants a UH T-shirt to diversify his collection and promised to reimburse whoever brings him one first.
Even if you can't take Allen a shirt, pay him a visit for affordable comfort food.
Hey Cheap Eaters! Send suggestions and comments my way at btavakol@bayou.uh.edu
Pelican State Restaurant
1608 Cullen Blvd.
Houston, TX 77023
(713) 223-5999
Hours: Monday through Friday, 7 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Closed Saturdays and Sundays