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Hi 83 / Lo 53 |
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Volume
69, Issue 117, Tuesday, March 30, 2004
Arts
& Entertainment
Oui! Tourists say 'yes' to France in just about every language by Sarah Ohmer
Paris is an old, bitter grandma. Don't expect her to acknowledge your efforts to enjoy her presence; she'll respond with a condescending scoff and spit in your face. And so will her people. Don't expect any compassion from the border patrol, the police or the waiters, but a bum or an abnormal Parisian might lend a hand if you look lost. Fortunately, there are street, bus and subway maps at every bus stop. Paris is all about public transportation, except when the workers go on a strike, so you may want to check the RATP Web site on your way into town (www.ratp.fr -- they have an English version). They sell two to five day passes at subway stations, which are not cheap, but they're the only deal you get. Unless you choose to cheat, which might cost you a lot more and is closely regulated by turnstiles and controlleurs (literally, controllers, people paid to control and hand out fines). You can escape the fine with a foreign address, but they might take you with them if you refuse to pay, in cash, on the spot. The French are just as patriotic as the Americans, so don't expect them to speak a foreign language, and remember that, to some people, English remains a foreign language. There's plenty of nice walks to take in the beautiful city of Paris, so here is a nice little stroll you can take around the Eiffel Tower. First you'll need to take the métro, the subway, to get a good taste of the Parisian lifestyle, with the smell of urine, the sight of trash and the sound of the accordion. The métro is like an underground city, with its own police (the controlleurs), stores, restaurants ... and it's just as hard to get around in as in the city above it. It's simpler than it seems though -- just follow the numbers, or letters, and the destinations, as if you were on the highway. Look for big "M" signs to find a station, then check out the maps inside (you can also download a map on the RATP Web site.) Find the line six, or line nine, make sure to go the right direction, and stop at the "Trocadéro." Each stop has at least two exits -- take the "Musée de l'Homme et de la Marine." Pass the museum on your right, and follow the herd of tourists to the picturesque view of the Eiffel Tower. Then walk down the fountain-lined plaza, cross the street and climb up the stairs to get the most tiresome view of the city. Or stroll on under the tower, down the Champ de Mars, and take a right down smaller streets and cheaper cafes. Quench your thirst with a three-euro glass of wine, and stroll back to the Bir Hakeim station line six. Stop by the graciously tagged soccer cages next to that station. Feel free to get a beer at the small grocery store up the street, sit by the Seine to enjoy your beverage, and enjoy the cars, boats and trains passing by. It's a nice spot for sunsets, but not as nice as the Butte de Montmartre. So, if you're alright with uphill walks, take line six towards Charles de Gaulle Etoile, stop at the last stop, switch to line two towards Nation, and stop at Pigalle, the Moulin Rouge stop. Don't be afraid to get lost in the long stairs and winding ruelles; just remember to walk uphill. From the top of the hill, you can see the whole city and almost feel its bohemian memories. Must-be-seen métro stops: Funiculaire de Montmartre, La Défense, Chatelet-les Halles, Cité, Saint-Michel-Notre Dame, Charles-de-Gaulle Etoile (Arc de Triomphe), Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre, and Bastille (best stop for bars). Paris-by-night walks: stop at Concorde (line one) and walk down the Champs Elysées to the Arc de Triomphe; stop at Pont de l'Alma and walk down the Seine to Notre-Dame. Photographer's pick: This one's easy. Don't forget to stop by the Eiffel Tower. Send comments to dcshobiz@mail.uh.edu |
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