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Katz's serves up food at all hours

Montrose deli 'never kloses,' offers more than 40 sandwiches among other treats

Feeding Frenzy

Bjorn Gudmundsson

Houston doesn't have a long tradition of 24-hour New York-style delis, but ever since Katz's Deli & Bar came along, it has become a fixture on the late-night dining scene.

Positioned prominently on a of lower Westheimer, the large, glitzy building is decidedly hard to miss. The red brick exterior shines with neon deli signs, assuring patrons that "Katz's Never Kloses." Inside, the look of the bi-level dining area is Art Deco subway station complete with black-and-white tiled floors and wrought-iron railing leading upstairs.

Being a 24-hour deli in the Montrose area with a full bar that opens at 7 a.m., clientele is eclectic to say the least. A casual crowd of locals can be found noshing on deli specialties at any time of the day. After 1 a.m., the club crowd packs the padded booths to share appetizers or desserts after late-night reveling, while Sunday afternoons bring in a slightly well-heeled group looking for an alternative to the traditional brunch.

Taking a look at the menu, it can be overwhelming, considering the number of options. Nonstop breakfast service is a great place to start. Nostalgic diner-style comfort foods such as "world famous" corned beef hash ($8.99) provide the full breakfast experience. Some items can be pricey, but it's worth it for such hard-to-find choices as Matzo Brei, which is Kosher-style French toast ($6.79 for a full order) or bagels with lox ($9.99).

For lunch, appetizers run $6.95 each and include basics such as buffalo wings and potato skins as well as quirky items like fried pickles with ranch dressing. A rotating list of daily soups, including split pea and corn chowder, takes a backseat to Katz's "award-winning" matzo ball soup. Available daily, this chicken noodle soup is a favorite few are willing to pass up.

The sandwich section seems to present the most problems for Katz's patrons -- deciding which one to order can be an ordeal. At least 40 different sandwiches are listed on the menu and are available on a variety of breads. Aside from the basic turkey and roast beef, Katz's also offers fresh-sliced kosher meats such as beef salami, beef bacon, pastrami and turkey ham; for the adventurous, there's also beef tongue. Signature sandwiches such as the Reuben ($8.99), overflowing with deli meat, melted Swiss, sauerkraut and Russian dressing guarantee satisfaction. One common complaint is that sides are not included, so ordering fries or onion rings can put prices over the top.

Desserts tend to be overly generous, which is the reason why they're often shared between two or more. However, the fabled Cheesecake Shake ($6.99) consisting of an entire slice of cheesecake blended with chocolate, vanilla or strawberry flavoring, is one dessert you might want to keep to yourself.

Katz's Deli & Bar

616 Westheimer Road

The verdict: Whether you're looking for a late-night breakfast or a hot fudge sundae early in the morning, Katz's is a good call.

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