Arts & Entertainment
 

New deli offers low prices on good food

Feeding Frenzy

Bjorn Gudmundsson

Brown Bag Deli, the new sandwich shop from the owners of the popular Barnaby's chain of local cafes, has gained quite a following in the six months it's been in business for serving up fresh fare in a low-key setting. Residents of nearby areas flock to this spot for a quick lunch consisting almost exclusively of cold deli-style sandwiches and traditional lunchtime sides. Essentially, it's fast food service is swift and your order is ready within two minutes. But you will find no greasy hamburgers or fries here, just the aforementioned sandwich and maybe a vegetarian burger.

This small sandwich spot gets its catchy name not because food is served in paper sacks, but because of the creative method of placing an order. Upon walking in, grab a clipboard from the front counter. Menu items are printed on the brown paper bag attached, and each order is customized according to the items checked off. Here, you can indicate whether you want low-calorie mayonnaise, or extra pickles. Once complete, hand your clipboard to one of the smiling staff members who are all but hidden by the tall counter and large slicing machines. A scant couple of minutes later, the end result is a large, satisfying sandwich made to your specifications.

Fairly straightforward, the sandwiches feature generous amounts of freshly sliced deli meats, cheese and other traditional ingredients. Sides such as potato salad, fruit salad and coleslaw are the perfect complement to any order.

Low-carb dieters will be pleased to find a deli plate listed on the menu, which features all the components of a sandwich, minus the bread, served on a bed of lettuce.

The best news for students is the affordability. Prices run relatively low, with sandwiches at three dollars, and sides and drinks at around $1.50.

Seating consists mainly of booths and a scattering of tables, although perhaps the best seat in the house is next to the self-serve drink machine. Here, you can pull up to the lone Internet station and check e-mail while you have lunch.

Part of the charm of this tiny space is the stress-free atmosphere. From the moment you walk in, the stack of magazines like People and Star tells you this is a place you can relax. Instead of having a server hurry you out the door, you can feel free to nurse your egg salad and enjoy the comforts of tabloid entertainment.

One drawback is the lunchtime crowd, which can be overwhelming when crammed into such a small space. Parking can also be a problem with the strip-center location, but some side street spaces are usually open.

Brown Bag Deli sees a large variety of clients come in and out of its doors, according to manager George Kanakidis.

"We get all medium of people," Kanakidis said. "You'll see young ladies, businessmen, alternative kids, students, artists from around the area ­ all different kinds of people."

The simple, pared-down concept of Brown Bag Deli is what attracts such a multicultural crowd, since it can appeal to just about anyone looking for a quick, tasty lunch at an extremely reasonable price.

Brown Bag Deli

2036 Westheimer Rd.

The verdict: An inexpensive, relaxing alternative to a sack lunch.