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Life & Arts

Taqueria a hit-or-miss experience

Enchiladas provide subtle flavor with cheese blend, but don't expect consistency when it comes to tortas

by John-Michael Haines
The Daily Cougar

Casual atmosphere, delectable dishes and slipshod presentation make the authentic Mexican food of Taqueria Arandas a hit or miss eating experience. 

Tortas, basically the Mexican chopped beef sandwich, are one of Aranda's specialties. They have lettuce, avocado slices, tomatoes, sour cream, chopped beef or chicken, and your choice of very spicy tomatillo salsa or mild picante sauce — all on fresh baked bread. 

The combination of fresh ingredients gives them a nice zesty flavor, which makes up for the bland, unflavored meat. Unfortunately, the tortas at Arandas can be very inconsistent. If the place looks busy, you're sure to get the sandwich hot but it will seem slapped together. On the other hand, you could end up with a lukewarm torta that is put together carefully. What seems to be missing from the food is effort. 

Other restaurants, such as Taqueria Cancun, make a shredded beef torta with refried beans that is better executed. One torta will fill you for a mere $3.50 and they are definitely a great break from Quizno's, Subway or the monotonous P.B. and J. 

Wrapped in either flour or corn tortillas, Arandas' enchiladas are covered in a Mexican-style cheese blend, smothered in a beef chili sauce, and filled with white cheese and your choice of beef or chicken. Served with authentic refried beans and rice, this is the most mild and subtly flavored dish at Arandas. The chili sauce gives it a taste that is familiar and recognizable, but the unique cheese blend and filling keeps it original and fresh. These enchiladas are as good or better than any you'll find at fancier Tex-Mex restaurants in the city for about $7.

Pre-made authentic Mexican desserts are made and kept refrigerated near the beverages at the checkout counter for those with a sweet tooth. The flan, covered in a caramel sauce, has an ideally smooth texture while still retaining its shape. The bittersweet taste brings a pleasantly light end to a heavy meal, but fails to be anything special. 

Since the food is cheap, the atmosphere is neglected, with mundane looking tables and chairs. The interior looks dated and at times leaves cleanliness in question. Background music occasionally plays with all Spanish words and Latin rhythms. Service is satisfactory and is seldom a problem. 

Taqueria Arandas has a lot of character, and for those with a sense of adventure and a light wallet, it can be a great place to have lunch. But, don't expect it to satisfy a dieter, a picky eater or wow a neat freak. 

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