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Life & Arts

Eatery is ‘king' in exotic district

by JOHN ARTERBURY
The Daily Cougar 

Nestled in a nondescript strip center on Bissonet Road in an area rich with foreign language bookstores, international wholesalers and ethnic restaurants, Afghan Tandoori King is barely noticeable, just another venue in a landscape of the exotic. 

The food, however, makes a lasting impression. Only a handful of ceremonial Afghan robes and a woodcut of the Central Asian nation dot the walls, but what the restaurant lacks in ambience is compensated by the dishes offered at Houston' s only Afghan restaurant. 

Although the eatery was notably lacking a wait staff, the owner was friendly and helpful and proved to be an adequate substitute on a night of employee shortfall. 

Assistance is readily provided when it comes to selecting a dish; those unfamiliar with Indian or Pakistani cuisine, which bears close relation to Afghan food, may require it. 

There are many appetizers offered at reasonable prices. The boolawnee are strips of lightly fried pastry stuffed with green onions, potato and leeks, served with mint yogurt for dipping. 

The onion is subtle and the dough flaky, and for a fried dish it is surprisingly light. 

Main courses are numerous, ranging from the more Persian-influenced kabab to more Indian-style curries. 

The chicken curry offers an unusual take on standard curries by omitting the typical sweetness of coconut and adding a small amount of olive oil and cumin, creating a more complex curried sauce.

The chicken itself is uniquely smoky, and despite the intense flavors, it' s not as heavy as traditional curries. 

The chef will also accommodate any level of spice requested by the diner. 

The eggplant bouranee baunjan, a savory vegetarian option and quintessential Afghan fare, was smaller than anticipated but filling nonetheless. 

The dish, steeped in a hearty tomato sauce and lightly drizzled with yogurt, was not the only vegetarian option available. 

Those eschewing meat will find reasonable accommodation offered at Afghan Tandoori King. 

All main courses are served with a complement of Basmati rice and Afghan flatbread, similar to Indian naan and fresh from the tandoor, a kind of stove. 

Even the rice, infused with fresh cardamom and hints of turmeric, is a filling and delicious venture. 

Prices are refreshing, with large lamb-based dishes not surpassing $10. 

Judging by the menu, prices keep getting slashed as well. The portions are equally satisfying, as most meals will allow plentiful leftovers. 

When getting a to-go box, customers are given a side salad with jalapeno vinaigrette dressing unlike any other. 

That in of itself is perhaps worth the trip to the restaurant. 

In an area of town renowned for its assortment of Indian, Middle Eastern and Vietnamese restaurants, Afghan Tandoori King is a welcome addition and one that demands repeat visits. 

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