Hi 73 / Lo 55
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Hi 73 / Lo 55 |
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Volume 72, Issue 123,
Thursday, April 5, 2007
Life & Arts Kam's meat is sweet, but its service is sour Montrose-area eatery spices up standard Szechwan dishes but fails to provide appealing atmosphere by JOHN-MICHAEL HAINES
Utilizing fresh ingredients to create unlikely combinations, Kam's Fine Chinese Cuisine reinvents classic Szechwan dishes and makes them tastier than ever. Chinese take-out is full of cliches, and Kam's Sa Cha Beef breaks them all. It has a unique stir-fry flavor with a blend of soy sauce and green tea. Though the sauce is complex, the taste is subtle with a pleasantly salty taste that transfers to the meat and a beef flavor that makes its way into all the vegetables. The addition of the tea lends a slight bitter aftertaste to the sauce. The Kung Pao Chicken has a more subtle sauce than usual which tastes zesty rather than spicy. Everything that accompanies the perfectly cooked chicken has a satisfying crunch and juiciness that quickly becomes addicting. The Imperial Pork Egg Rolls are some of the best in the business. They're packed full of delicious pork and don't have the filler vegetables that other take-out joints sneak in. They are juicy, salty and crunchy and come with spicy mustard and a sweet orange glaze rather than the usual sweet and sour sauce. The atmosphere at Kam's, though, feels plain and unoriginal. The interior consists of one open room with wood-finished tables and chairs lined up against either a wall of windows or another poorly decorated wall. Parking is a pain, mostly because it is located on Montrose. Service is average at best. The waiters don't even seem to know their own menu, except by numbers, and have little knowledge of the food itself. With a staff that doesn't fully understand English, communication here can be difficult and can really put a damper on the dining experience. Though the food is excellent, the poor service and boring atmosphere don't seem to justify the slightly inflated prices. dcshobiz@mail.uh.edu
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